KHAN TENGRI 2011
Below is the statement:
‘General Consulate of the Republic of Poland in Almaty informs that two Polish citizens have gone missing in the territory of the Republic of Kazakhstan: MICHAŁ WOJCIECH KACPERSKI, born on 1 October 1980 and PIOTR TADEUSZ ZWOLIŃSKI, born on 8 July 1965. They were last seen at the beginning of August 2010 at the Zharkulak settlement in the Raimbek district (raion) of the Almaty province (oblast), from where they planned to begin their Khan Tengri ascent.
We hereby request everyone who has seen M.W. Kacperski and P.T. Zwoliński or has any information about their stay in Kazakhstan to immediately contact the General Consulate of the Republic od Poland in Almaty. A reward awaits!
General Consulate of the Republic of Poland in Almaty, Dzarkentskaya-Iskanderova str. (Джаркентская-Искандерова), 9-11/13
Phone: (+ 7 727) 258 16 17, 258 15 51, 263 35 87, 263 37 68
Emergency out of hours phone: (+ 7 701) 989 81 25”
The Poles planned to reach the Northern Inylchek glacier via the Pass 11. They most probably went missing in the high mountain (alpine) zone.
According to the search group leader, at the end of August another two alpinists went from the Northern Inylchek glacier to Pass 11, from where they continued their ascent of Peak 11 along the ridge in the westerly direction. A helicopter flight was also conducted above the slopes of the peak and the pass at the side of the Bayankol valley. At the beginning of October a group of three alpinists searched the slopes of the Sary Dhaz range, also from the Bayankol side. No trace of the missing climbers’ presence has been found. It also turned out that the route at the map, given to the Poles by the Kazakh agency that hosted them, was marked erroneously. It is therefore highly probable that they turned their steps to the edges of the Bayankol gorge where they lost their way.
The schematic map shows:
1. red line – the route suggested to the Poles according to the map,
2. red dots – the route suggested to the Poles according to the photo,
3. green line – the correct route to Pass 11 (Pass of the Eleven),
4. pink line – the route of the search party of two starting from the Northern Inylchek glacier in August,
5. yellow line – the route of the party of three from CSKA (Central Alpine Sports Club – ЦСКА) in October.
Unfortunately the agency did not insist strongly enough that the Poles should hire a guide.
A wrong route was shown to them.
The agency staff only realised 10 days later that the guys have not reached their target point.
It seems to me they acted quite irresponsibly in the situation when their clients have gone missing.
Taking into account the shortcomings of the hosting agency, I therefore cordially ask everyone – please help the Kazakh alpinists in the search for the missing Poles. Traces of their presence may be found both at the Bayankol side and in the area of Northern Inylchek. Their families also still hope that they could have gone to the Siemionov glacier towards the west, into the river Sary-Dhas valley, or maybe changed their direction due to a fatal mistake and enter the Chinese territory.
If you are staying in this area, please pay special attention to any traces of human presence. If you find anything suspicious, use the contact details given above or contact us in Kazakhstan, the Kazakh authorities or media.
I also personally ask you not to take risks. Do not enter areas unknown to you without having thoroughly studied your route and becoming familiar with local conditions. You would rather pay a couple hundred dollars to a guide who knows the route, rather than risk your life and the happiness of your near and dear ones. This concerns not only Kazakhstan but any other mountainous area as well.
Денис Урубко (Denis Urubko)